The use of consumer digital cameras by amateurs for the purposes of amateur astrophotography has seen a tremendous
explosion the past few years fueled by stunning astrophotographs, particularly of the solar system. Similarly, the
recent popularity of h-alpha imaging of our closest star has also been experiencing dramatic interest from the same
amateur community (a sample h-alpha setup and configuration is available
here,
here and
here).
However, the use of the same digicams used to produce dramatic images of the moon and the planets is in direct contrast
to the results obtained when imaging our sun.
As indicated by Figure 1, imaged by the author during the Mercury transit in early May, the sun is characterized with
some gorgeous prominences around the solar disk but, regrettably, there is little to no detail for the solar disk which
was also equally active and interesting at the same time (the lack of disk detail was so bad that the transitting
Mercury was barely visible)!
Analysis of the constituent RGB channels
for this image (Figures 2(a)-(c)) reveals some very surprising and disappointing results. Aside from the active limb
details readily visible in the RGB
composite, we have a serious amount of disk detail suddenly available in the Green channel which is not visible in
either the RGB composite or the
R and B channels individually!
These results are diametrically opposed to what one would expect since the h-alpha system isolates a specific wavelength
(652 nm) of hydrogen and, as a result, we would expect to find the R channel to be 100% signal
with the G and B channels being totally black which is something
easily verified at the eyepiece. Although these results due to signal leakage represent a step backward, we can use the
information at hand to rectify the deficiencies which characterize most consumer digital cameras already in use to
produce dramatic h-alpha images with both prominence and disk details (this problem of signal leakage has also surfaced
with the use of webcams for the imaging of Mars during the recent opposition and where the best results have been
produced with I/R blocking filters in place).
Although the RGB composite was properly
exposed using a Nikon Coolpix 995 (ISO 100, 1/125th sec), the Green channel representing our only source for disk detail
is dramatically underexposed. However, if we were to purposely saturate the camera’s chip by using an exposure about 3
times that for the proper RGB composite
(Figure 3), we will end up with sufficient leakage in the Green channel which will provide an excellent and properly
exposed solar disk with details. Coupled with the original RGB
composite where limb details have already been captured (Figure 1), we are now in a position to produce a complete
h-alpha image of the sun and in spite of the limitations and challenges imposed by the overwhelming majority of consumer
digital cameras.
The weeks that followed the Mercury transit were used to extensively study the behavior of my Nikon Coolpix 995 and
which I confirmed with other fellow amateurs locally and internationally to be true for most other digital cameras as
well. The five-step procedure I have developed is as follows:
Step 1: | Take three to four exposures at each exposure setting starting from 1/2 sec and going all the way to 1/1000 sec. We would like more than one sample at each exposure in the event seeing changed slightly while the exposure was been taken. | |||
Step 2: | Take the best sample image at 1/2, 1/30, 1/125 and 1/1000 (since you took 3-4 of each) and split the RGB components. If you are lucky (!), you will see signal ONLY in the R channel. This is true, for example, for the Canon 10D and its precursor (D60). | |||
Step 3: | If you indeed have signal ONLY in R, step through the various exposures taken from 1/2 to 1/1000, convert to grayscale and then look for the image with the best detail. This should provide you with the exposure setting that you should be using for all h-alpha imaging. | |||
Step 4: | If Step 3 led you to exposures where there is also signal in the G and/or B channels, you have the same problem that most of us do. To this end, you will have to save all three channels (R, G and B) for each of the exposures from 1/2 to 1/1000 sec in grayscale and then step through all of these to find which channel and at what exposure you are getting the best signal. For my Nikon Coolpix 995, the Green channel at 1/15th sec using ISO 100 represents my best combination as I invariably have my optimal signal. | |||
Step 5: | Also take 3-4 images at each exposure setting after setting your digital camera in B&W mode to see if there is anything there being produced of potential interest. My initial results look promising and may represent a means in avoiding the signal leakage. |